Scanning Color Negatives with Eversmart Pro Scanner using Eversmart Scan

Scitex/Creo Eversmart series scanners are phenomenal SCSI scanners but depending on the version of the scanner you have, you may not be able to upgrade to the Oxygen Scan software that provides ability to scan in 16 BIT RAW. If you have Jazz, Eversmart or Eversmart PRO version of the scanners, you’ll be limited to Eversmart Scan software on Mac OS 9.2. I have this combination myself and after many hours of extensive testing, I have found the best settings for scanning Color Negative film.

Installing Scanner Profile and AdobeRGB ColorSpace

1st Step is to make sure that have correctly installed the Transparent Scanning ES Pro scanner profile “TR ES ProII.icc” profile in ColorSync. To install this profile, simply copy and paste the TR ES ProII.icc file from the Eversmart Scan folder to the System Folder -> ColorSync Profiles folder.

See screenshots below as reference.

Setting up Eversmart Scan Settings

Once the profiles have been installed, select them from the scanner Setup Dialog window while scanning. See screenshot below as reference.

Also, I find the below settings for the End Points produce best scans that are very compatible with ColorPerfect plugin.

As you can note in the screenshot, I have mine saved as Portra_ES_Test so I can easily select this setting for all of my scans from the main Setup Dialog window. Make sure that Graduation is set to Default and Sharpness has been turned off. Once you have these settings, scan and save your Tiff file.

Make sure you also do the following in PhotoShop before starting to work on your scan.

  • Convert the file to 16 BIT
  • Convert to ProPhoto RGB (Optional)
  • Go through the normal ColorPerfect plugin steps ūüôā

Eversmart Pro Sample Scans

Here are some sample scans made with this process.

Doolin Village, Ireland

Corcomroe Abbey, Ireland

Palm Tree

Coconut Trees

Scanning Color Negatives using Epson Scanner and ColorPerfect Plugin

Here is a quick and easy visual tutorial for scanning color negatives using Epson scanners (v700 in this example) and ColorPerfect plugin.

Setting up Epson Scan for Positive Scans

Select Configuration button at the bottom of the main screen in Epson Scan software and update the settings based on the following screenshots.

Click OK when you are done with the all settings in the configuration window.

From the main window, select the File Save Settings (small icon to the right of the Scan button) and configure the settings to match the following screenshots.

Please make sure that the Embed ICC Profile is selected.

You are now ready to start scanning.

Keep the following notes in mind when you are scanning using Epson v7xx or v8xx Scanners:

  1. Try to start with a DPI setting around 1200  Р1600.
    I have noticed that the contrast reduces with increase in DPI after approx. 2000 DPI and it makes the inversion process more difficult.
  2. Always hit the Reset button after you have selected your scanning frame.
    You do not want Epson Scan to apply any post processing other than scanning with the selected Gamma and Continuous Exposure setting from earlier.
  3. Make sure that all software processing settings (unsharp mask, grain reduction, and etc.) have been turned off.

Use the following screenshots as a reference to make your scan.

Notice the increase in brightness due to the automatic adjustments applied by the software when you selected the scanning frame.

Click on Reset to remove all of these auto adjustments. See screenshots for before and after clicking on the Reset button below. The Reset button should be grayed out.

Your preview should show normal exposure after the Reset button has been clicked. Again, see the screenshot below as reference.

At this point, go ahead and click on Scan and save the Tiff file.

Processing Scan in Photoshop using ColorPerfect

Please note that ColorPerfect works with various versions of the following photo editing software: Adobe Photoshop, PhotoLine and Adobe Photoshop Elements for PC & Mac
More info can be found at: http://www.colorperfect.com

Open your scan in Photoshop.

Let’s convert the scan to Adobe RGB profile which works best with the ColorPerfect plugin. From the Edit menu, select Convert to Profile and follow the screenshots as reference.

Once the file has been converted to Adobe RGB, remove any film rebate by cropping the image. This helps ColorPerfect get the best conversion as a starting point. You can experiment with including the film border once you have mastered the basic workflow.

Start ColorPerfect by selecting it from the Filter menu.

You will need to setup¬†default settings for ColorPerfect the 1st time you use it.¬†The settings to change are directly under the “Start” area on the top-right of the plugin. Make sure that these¬†are set to ColorNeg and ‘L” for Linear and Adobe 1998 (profile we converted to earlier). If you do not see these options, click on [<<] icon on the top-left to bring back the default starting point.

Also uncheck all options on the main layout with the exception of BP Trails. Set BP Trails to .005 as the default value.

Once this has been setup, select the correct Film Brand (Kodak in this example) and Film Type (Ektar 100 in this example) from the drop-down selections at the bottom. You should see a very good inverted scan at this point with white balance still off.

Click on a neutral white or gray area on the image to auto select white balance and viola! You should have a pretty darn good scan with minimal effort so far. This is why I love ColorPerfect and I am sure you will too ūüôā

From this point on, it’s all a matter of personal preference.

Here are few things that I typically go through to finalize my scan.

Based on this scan, I can tell there is a slight cast to the image. Let’s use Photoshop’s one of the many magical algorithms to quickly eliminate it.

Select CTRL + ALT +B -> Auto Color to remove cast.

Here is what Photoshop selected in this case. Review and update if you like but I mostly just click OK at this point.

Here is what the scan looks now. See, we are making progress ūüôā

Now lets apply a Contrast Curve (CTRL + M) to taste. I try to select two points on the histogram. 1 for Shadows and 1 for Highlights.

Here is the latest preview. I could just stop here but I want to show you a few other tricks that I use.

One of the most powerful tools in Photoshop for photo editing is the Camera Raw Editor. Select it from the Filter menu or use the CTRL + SHIFT + A shortcut.

Purely based on taste, I adjusted the white balance to add some “coolness” to the scan by adjusting the Temperate and Tint sliders¬†under the White¬†Balance settings. Keep in mind that Ektar 100 is a highly saturated film and it always scans that way when I use a drum scanner. However, Epson scans tend to reduce the saturation which you can easily add back using the Vibrance slider.

Add Vibrance to taste.

Click OK. Here is what our the scan looks like now.

At this point, I am very happy with this scan. I typically add a white or black border to finalize the scan. Here is the final image!

 

Linear RAW Scans with VueScan

VueScan (VS) is popular scanning software solution offered by Hamrick Software. It has many functions and features, with a relatively simple user interface. I can’t say it’s the most user friendly, but it gets the job done. In general, I only use VS¬†for its RAW, linear capture, so that I get complete control of the image without auto-editing from the scanner and¬†software.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the process of obtaining a linear scan using VueScan 9 (9.5.69), on macOS Sierra, with an Epson v800. Since VS can work with a number of different scanners, get to know your features and how VS can take advantage of them.

Why Linear Scans?

Much like RAW output in a digital camera, the linear scan is RAW output straight from the scanner’s sensor (e.g. CCD on Epson v800), without any manipulation from the scanning software. Most software packages that come with consumer scanners do not offer this ability (e.g. Epson Scan or SilverFast Ai), and software like VS does. It’s unfortunate, as you’re dropping cash for software to basically “do nothing” for you.

Fortunately, you can really harness the power of RAW scans as your scanning workflow matures through IT8 monitor calibration and film calibration from mature software like ColorPerfect film profiles or slide specific IT8 targets. Note, IT8 film targets are only useful for slide film, and VS is terrible at IT8 calibration, as it doesn’t use 3D color LUT (Lookup Table), it uses a simple 3×3 sampling matrix which is very limited in accuracy. More on this topic later.

Software Layout

VS is organized in six different tabs, Input, Crop, Filter, Color, Output, and Prefs, all which contains settings that can impact your scan. I’ll walk you through the configurations in each of these tabs, relative to the Epson.

 

Input Tab

The input tab contains all the configurations on how VS will scan the image, shows you the preview and actual scan. Typically the quality of the Preview and actual Scan in VS is terrible, so don’t judge your image until you’ve had a chance to bring it into your favorite editor.

  • Options – Professional, which gives you complete access to parameters
  • Task – Scan to File, as you’ll be saving the final image
  • Source – select your scanner
  • Mode – Transparency, for film
  • Media – Slide, pure image right off the CCD without VS trying to interpret what is “negative”, use this for all film, including B&W
  • Bits per pixel – 48-bit for a full gamut, 64-bit if you want to do infrared dust cleaning
  • Preview resolution – 800 dpi, use a high enough resolution that allows VS to adjust the scanners exposure
  • Scan resolution – 3200 dpi, use the highest resolution that makes sense for your scanner, and down sample later
  • Auto flip, Rotation, Skew, Mirror – up to you, no impact
  • Auto focus – Not available on Epson, use it if your scanner supports
  • Auto save – None, turn this off and you can control when you decide to save
  • Auto print – None, i doubt you want to auto print
  • Auto repeat – None
  • Number of samples – 3, determine how many times a single line is sampled to¬†help with scan quality (e.g. noise)
  • Multi-exposure – None, could be helpful for scanners with low DMax that have a hard time pulling data off the film
  • Lock exposure, R/G/B gain – these help with identifying the base color of the film, you’ll need to do this for each film

Crop Tab

The settings on this tab aren’t that critical towards a RAW scan, as they are used¬†to adjust. The most notable setting are the following:

  • Border % – 0,
  • Buffer % – 20, determines how far from the crop border the color calculation will be done (i.e. ignore film¬†border on film strip)

 

 

Filter Tab

This is a critical tab, where you want to effectively disable all auto settings. If needed, you could enable infrared cleaning, using “Light”. I’ve found it to be pretty helpful and reduces the amount of time I spend cleaning up the scan in post-processing.

 

 

 

 

Color Tab

Another instrumental tab, where you want to effectively disable all color correction.

  • Color balance – None, you will manually take care of color balance in post-editing
  • Curve low – 0.25, I left this at default, you could set it 0, but basically this is the bottom end of the histogram curve (black)
  • Curve high – 0.75, I left this at default, you could set it to 1, but basically this is the top of the histogram curve (white)
  • Brightness, Red, Green, Blue – 1, no adjustment
  • Slide vendor – Generic, don’t apply any film color correction, VS’s profiles are not good
  • Slide brand – Color,¬†don’t apply any film color correction, VS’s profiles are not good
  • Slide type – Slide
  • Scanner color space, ICC profile – I’ve selected the Epson default ICC profile and file
  • Scanner IT8 data – blank, if you have IT8 targets, you’ll use them in post-processing, not in VS
  • Film color space – Default, leave as-is
  • Output color space – Adobe RGB, I believe this is the Epson’s operating¬†gamut
  • Monitor color space – ICC Profile, I calibrated¬†my monitor using XRite i1 Display. If you don’t have a profile, use Adobe RGB

Output Tab

This is the tab where you’ll configure a RAW TIFF output file, and the settings are very simple.

  • Raw file – check this box, none of the others
  • Raw file type – 48-bit RGB, for full gamut, 64-bit if you want to do infrared cleaning in post-processing
  • Raw output with – Save, tells VS to save the output when you save the file
  • Raw compression – Off, we don’t want VS compressing any details

Deciding on a Film Scanner

Scanning is a great way to digitize your film, offering flexibility of a hybrid film and digital workflow. As any part of the film photography process, digitizing is a time consuming process, but is very rewarding once you’ve got the tools that fit your needs.¬†There are a number of film scanning solutions on the market, falling into three¬†major categories, bespoke¬†Film Scanners, Flatbed Scanners, and Drum Scanners.

Film Scanners

These scanners leverage CCD technology, and are specifically dedicated¬†to film photography – they are not suitable for general purpose use, such as document scanning. Formats are generally 35mm up to 6×7 formats (Medium Format), with¬†high-end¬†solutions capable of¬†up to 4×5″ format.¬†Examples include PlusTek, Nikon Coolscan, Hasselblad Flextight X5. If you’re just starting your film journey, plan for formats you’ll be interested in shooting in the future, as these solutions offer the least flexibility and can be costly.

Plustek OpticFilm 8200  Pacific Image PowerSlide Hasselblad Flextight X5

Flatbed Scanners

Flatbeds are general scanners geared towards home and office use. In the case of film photography, you must select one with transparency scanning capability. The scanning area on these dictates format, but generally support 35mm through 8×10″, with high-end solutions¬†capable of¬†up to 11×14″ format. Some of the high-end solutions can hold their own against Drum Scanners, but come with a hefty price tag.

 

Cannon CanoScan 9000F

Epson Perfection v800     Creo EverSmart Pro

 

Drum Scanners

Drum scanners¬†are the pinnacle of scanners, but are rare and hard to get a hold off. They leverage Photo Multiplier Tubes (PMT) and require expert knowledge to restore and configure for usage and require regular maintenence. Given their age, they generally are not compatible with modern technology and¬†require an ecosystem of outdated tech as well, such as FireWire and SCSI adapters, older computing platforms like Apple G3 and G4 processors, and software that is no longer supported by vendors as they¬†have long gone out of business. You’ll put in significant effort to set them up, but the results¬†will make you giddy.

ScanView ScanMate 5000

What should you consider?

Deciding on a film scanner can be quite a challenge given the number of choices and attributes to consider. It becomes particularly difficult if you’re just getting into it, and are not sure what your end goal is – so start planning this out before dropping money on a device. It will be frustrating if you’re not getting the quality scans that are representative of¬†your film work. Below are some attributes to consider in a scanner.

Resolution

This is a tough one, as many people get hung up in numbers and there isn’t a true standard to be measured against. Theoretically, higher resolution equates to sharper scans. That being said, consumer grade scanners tend to be over-stated and realistically the usable resolution is much less. So don’t get too caught up in the numbers here, but do your research on the scan resolution as it compares to the size of the film you’re working with and that of the prints or images you are looking to share. At the end of the day, your 35mm scans are going to have more resolution than the best 35mm digital SLRs on the market today – for example, for 35mm, you’re looking at¬†80-100 megapixels for a high resolution film vs. 25-30 megapixels for top of the line 35mm DSLRs.

Color Depth

This is where things start to get a bit more interesting. The natural inclination is to look at bit levels equally, however it depends on whether or not the scanner resolves color in linear or logarithmic scale, and how accurately the scanner can measure the color. Consumer grade scanners typically use linear scale while¬†high end are on a log scale – I’ll write more on this topic in another blog post. That being said, the bit depth gives you an idea of how many colors the scanner can communicate, but does not indicate quality. For example, a 48-bit scanner may use¬†16-bit for each¬†color channel, Red, Green, and Blue. That means, a 48-bit scanner can encode 281 trillion colors, but the quality of the color detection is dependent upon the sensor technology. Also, some scanners use¬†an additional 16-bits for an infrared channel that is used for software-based dust detection and removal.

Color Gamut

The color gamut¬†is not specific to film or scanning, but¬†a concept that ties your¬†entire workflow together, from your scanner, to your editing, physical printing, or online sharing. The gamut is the¬†range of colors that your device or application can work within. Therefore, the bit depth becomes important depending on the gamut you use. For example, Standard RGB, Adobe RGB, Apple’s ProPhoto, and CMYK are common gamuts and are optimized for¬†different color ranges. Devices and software in your workflow will include the scanner, monitor, scanning software, editing software, publishing software, printing software, printer, mobile devices, and more. It can be a very big challenge to get your gamut and devices in-sync to represent the final image you are aiming for. To sync the color gamut, being able to calibrate and store your configurations becomes crucial and this is done through IT8 profiles. More on this topic in another blog post.

DMax

The DMax number indicates¬†the optical density and tonal details the scanner can resolve and is indicative of the scanner’s abilities. An image on film¬†is represented by varying densities after development. For example, on a negative the highlights and whites are densest areas of the film, while shadows and blacks are the thinnest areas. The scanner’s ability to capture the range between these densities is where the¬†DMax becomes very important. For example Fuji Velvia is known to have a very tight range of 5-6 stops (similar to most DSLRs), while Kodak Ektar is on the order of 12-13 stops. To make the most of your scans, you want the highest DMax you can afford. The number itself is on a log base 10 scale, where each whole number is 10 times more range than it’s successor – 2 is 10 times more than 1, 3 is 10 times more than 2, etc.¬†As density of the film to be scanned approaches the scanner’s DMax, you start to see noise as the scanner will struggle to read through the film.

Dust Removal

Dust on film is inevitable and can be a nuisance even if you’ve cleaned your negatives and scanner. Bespoke scanners offer dust cleaning physically within the scanner, while you’re left cleaning dust on your own when using flat beds or drum scanners. Additionally, hardware dust and scratch removal is provided through¬†through Digital ICE (Image Correction and Enhancement), but dependent on the scanner’s ability to detect the artifacts. Any dust not removed through automated process can be removed through an electric duster (electric air blower, not canned air), anti-static brush (scanner glass), or post-editing tools.

Film Scanning Area

Scanning area will determine the size of film you can scan, and the number of frames. For example, the Plustek 8100 can only scan 35mm film, and nothing else. So if you’re looking to step up into medium format, large format, or ultra-large format you’re out of luck. While flatbeds like Epson v800 can scan up to 8×10 (you’ll need to find a 3rd party film holder). So consider what format film you’ll be working with, and how many frames can be scanned at once as this can help save time during the scanning process.

Film Holders and Drums

Most scanners leverage some sort of mechanism to hold the film in a position for the scanning process. For bespoke and flat beds, they’re traditionally use film holders, while drum scanners, well, they use transparent drums. Some high-end flat beds can scan film directly on the glass. The quality of the¬†scans¬†is determined¬†on how well the holders flatten the film, and the quality of the glass they use. Some film holders also use Anti-Newton ring coating, which prevents unwieldy scanning “ring-like” artifacts from showing up. For scanners without an auto-focus system, adjustable film holders are necessary, and they are a pain to adjust. For drum systems, the film is taped directly onto the drum, using special tape that is safe for drums.

Fluid Mount

Film scanning can benefit from fluid mounting, which is the process of using a kerosene-like fluid, directly on the scanner glass or a film holder. The fluid fills in thin scratches, can aid in removing dust, and helps provide clarity, vibrance, and contrast to scans. It certainly adds even more time to the process, but worth it if you’re looking for gallery quality prints. Not all scanners can support fluid mounting (e.g. bespoke) while some flatbeds require special fluid mounting film holders (e.g. Epson v800 with Better Scanning holder), some can fluid mount right on the glass (e.g. Creo EverSmart) or directly on the drums of a drum scanner. Extra caution must be taken, because¬†not only is the fluid is flammable, you don’t want it getting into the electronics.

Autofocus

Autofocus is generally only available on very expensive high end scanners, and it’s a very useful feature that saves you time and headache as you won’t¬†have to calibrate the height of your film holders. Additionally, your scanning software must be able to use your scanners autofocus mechanism.

Scanning Software

Software compatibility is often overlooked, but extremely important part of the workflow. Not only does it determine what system you can use (e.g. Windows vs. Mac), but control over the final image too. If you’re looking for ultimate control, you want to make sure the software is compatible with software that can output in linear RAW TIFF¬†format, allowing you to control adjustments to the image in post-processing (e.g. color correction). Vuescan and SilverFast are two popular software choices, which require purchase. If you’re not looking for complete control, the out of box software packaged with your scanner may suffice (most likely not). Software adjustments impact your final image. For example, the Epson software does not allow you to output¬†in linear RAW, and it applies color correction directly into its scans. Also, something to be aware of with SilverFast, the license is only good for the¬†specific scanner you buy it for, and is not transferrable – this can be a no-go for most folks. Also, the SilverFast software often packaged with scanners is not the full-featured version.

Batch Scanning

If you’re scanning a bulk set of film, particularly¬†35mm, bulk scanning can be useful to help speed up the scanning process. The configuration is set based on film location in film holder, and the ability of the software and scanner to work in tandem to detect the individual film area.

Physical Connection

Physical connection is often taken for granted because today’s technology is generally some sort of USB connection. Well, for high-end equipment that is now dated, you’ll also need to consider compatibility with SCSI connections, which is no longer ubiquitous and can be quite challenging in getting configured properly. You’ll want to look up known working configurations to save yourself hours of headache, trust me… I know.